Making your own cyanotype: complete beginners guide

Making your own cyanotype is surprisingly accessible: you apply a light-sensitive solution to paper or textile, place an object or negative on it, expose it to UV light and rinse the result with water. The characteristic Prussian blue print is only created when material, coating, contact and lighting work together. With this step-by-step plan you first make a controlled experiment and then you can experiment in a targeted manner.

What do you need?

• One cyanotype starter kit or two properly prepared stock solutions.
• Absorbent, acid-free paper or pre-washed textile made from a natural fiber.
• A soft foam brush , coating rod or fine synthetic brush.
• A dry, clean workplace and subdued light without direct sunlight.
• Leaves, flowers, transparent objects or a digital negative.
• A glass or plexiglass plate to keep everything flat.
• Sunlight or a UV lamp, a timer, water and a clean sink.

If you don't want to collect all the parts separately, check out the cyanotype kits and supplies . The product pages also contain real customer reviews that help you choose a suitable set.

Step 1: prepare material and workplace

Do not work next to food or drinks and protect the work surface. Wear gloves when mixing or applying solutions. Use separate measuring cups and brushes that are no longer used for food. For more detailed advice, read our explanation of cyanotype and safety .

Choose paper that tolerates water. Watercolor paper of about 250–300 gsm is a reliable start, but the pH, sizing and structure are at least as important as the weight. The complete paper guide shows how to test an unknown sheet.

Step 2: Mix only what you need

The classical method uses solution A with ferric ammonium citrate and solution B with potassium ferricyanide. Store both solutions separately, dark and clearly labeled. Mix equal volumes of A and B just before use, unless your kit's instructions state otherwise. A small amount already covers several test strips; mixing too much mainly leads to waste.

Exact quantities and scale examples can be found in the guide to cyanotype ratios in grams and milliliters .

Step 3: Apply a thin, even coating

Lay the paper flat and quickly spread the mixed solution over the desired area. The surface should be completely covered, but not soaking wet. Do not iron over semi-dry emulsion endlessly; this causes streaks and damages paper fibers. A slightly visible brush edge can be artistic, but first create an even surface for a technical test.

Step 4: Allow to dry completely in the dark

Let the coated material dry horizontally in a dark, dust-free place. Do not use a hot hair dryer. The drying time depends on the paper, humidity and amount of coating. A surface that still feels cool or clammy is not ready: moisture can reduce contrast and cause a negative to stick.

Step 5: create the composition and ensure good contact

Place dry leaves, shapes or a negative on the coated surface. Clamp everything under glass or UV-transmitting plexiglass. The flatter the contact, the sharper the edges. Thick plants give soft contours more quickly; print them in advance or consciously choose the spatial effect.

Step 6: Determine the exposure with a test strip

There is no fixed universal time. Summer sun, winter sun, cloud cover, a UV lamp, negative density and material change the required exposure. Therefore, start with a strip that you cover in steps. Record light source, distance and time. The cyanotype exposure guide provides useful starting points and shows how to recognize under- and overexposure.

Step 7: Rinse until the water remains clear

Remove the object or negative and rinse the print gently in cool water. Change the water several times until yellow-green residue disappears and the water remains clear. Do not use a strong jet on fragile paper. The blue deepens as it dries and through oxidation, so don't judge the final color just in the first minute.

Step 8: Dry flat and record the result

Allow paper to dry on a clean surface or hang sturdy textiles. On a separate test sheet, record the paper type, mixing date, light source and exposure time. This way you build up your own reference that is much more valuable than one general time from a manual.

Common mistakes

• Pale image: usually too short exposure, insufficiently dry coating or unsuitable paper.
• Completely dark: exposed for too long or too little light blocked by the negative.
• Blurry edges: insufficient contact between object, negative and surface.
• Stripes: too much liquid or re-ironing over a drying layer.
• Yellow spots: insufficiently rinsed or contaminated rinse water.

Do you see another problem? Use the diagnostics in Cyanotype failed? 10 Causes and Solutions .

Frequently asked questions

Can I make cyanotype indoors?

Yes. Coating and drying is done indoors in subdued light; You can use a suitable UV lamp for lighting. Track distance and time to make results repeatable.

Do I have to work in complete darkness?

No. Dim artificial light without a strong UV component is usually practical enough. Avoid direct sunlight and do not leave coated material in bright light for an unnecessarily long time.

Can I use regular printer paper?

Sometimes for a quick test, but thin paper tears and deforms during rinsing. Watercolor paper or heavy-duty drawing paper usually produces more reliable results.

Which first purchase makes the most sense?

A complete kit prevents proportions or missing tools from interfering with the first experiment. If you already have paper and tools, a cyanotype refill kit may be more practical.

In short: start small, change one variable at a time and write down what you do. A simple test strip and suitable paper usually yields more improvement than gambling longer with the same full print.